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Pulling strings
The World Pearl Forum 2009, hosted by the Dubai Pearl Exchange, a subsidiary of the DMCC, took place in Dubai this February. We bring you two experts who discuss the state of the industry and how to use this timeless jewellery to accessorise at work.
The World Pearl Forum 2009 attracted the pearl industry’s leading experts from across the globe to the Atlantis Hotel, Palm Jumeirah to discuss the latest pearling developments and initiatives. The 2-day forum, scheduled for February 17th and 18th 2009, featured panel discussions in addition to presentations from some of the industry’s most respected individuals, who addressed a range of topical issues faced by the world pearl industry today. Headed by His Excellency Sultan Ahmed Bin Sulayem, Chairman of Dubai World, some of the topics covered were:
Nicolas Paspaley, Executive Chairman, Paspaley, ‘Branding a Modern classic, The South Sea Pearl’
Robert Wan, Chairman, Robert Wan Tahiti, ‘Polynesian Black Pearl, The Influence in Today’s Market’
Justin Hunter, Founder, J. Hunter Pearls Fiji, ‘A New Source of Black Pearl’
Dr Jack Ogden, Chief Executive, Gemmological Association of Great Britain, ‘Pearl Distinction: Natural vs Cultured, 100 years of expertise’
Kenneth Scarratt, Director of Research, GIA Thailand, ‘Challenges of creating a Universal Grading System’
To find out more, visit www.dpe.ae/wpf
A lustrous new future
Gaiti Rabbani, Executive Director Coloured Stones and Pearls, Dubai Multi Commodities Centre, on how the industry can work towards a shared vision
What are the challenges faced by the pearl industry today?
Currently, the pearl industry is fragmented and naturally divided into specific geographic regions where pearls are produced. Trading in pearls takes place across the world with specific centres being located close to the production destinations. There is no single industry body that synergises all pearl trade related initiatives on an international level. In order to ensure the future growth of the pearl industry and create a lustrous new future for pearls, the Dubai Pearl Exchange believes it is important for global experts to work together towards a shared vision and has accordingly taken the initiative to create a forum for the global pearl trade, hence the creation of the inaugural World Pearl Forum hosted by the Dubai Pearl Exchange.
The primary objective of the forum is to foster lasting professional relationships with international and regional players in the pearl industry. Of course this could eventually lead to exploring business opportunities, both from potential members of DPE and amongst participants at the forum.
Do you think pearls are in danger of being sidelined for other flashier gems?
Pearls are universally popular thanks to their rich history both in the East and West. For thousands of years, pearls have been the exclusive gemstones of royalty and nobility in every culture. A combination of several factors in recent years, including a shift in fashion preferences towards more classic designs and an expanding regional luxury market, particularly in the Middle East and Asia, has reignited an interest in pearls. High-end pearl jewellery often features diamonds and coloured stones, too, offering a wide range of options for a real statement in fashion.
What kind of an investment would a small or medium jewellery design business be looking at if it were to specialise in pearl accessories?
There are too many variables to arrive at a specific investment. Different pearl types span very wide price bands from the more affordable fashion jewellery at high street level to the rare gem quality pearls and pearl jewellery carried by leading brands in boutiques.
Does Dubai Pearl Exchange provide any training to interested entrepreneurs? What other industry support do they provide?
The Dubai Pearl Exchange primarily promotes trade of pearls amongst its member base to include international producers and regional or international buyers. Local market knowledge and expertise is at hand to members alongside training and education. The Exchange recently announced the creation of a dedicated and comprehensive Natural Pearl Course which includes details on the regions rich pearling heritage that appeals to residents and visitors alike. The Exchange also has plans to introduce standards in the local market to ensure retailers disclose qualities of pearls enabling consumers to buy with confidence.
Mixing business with pleasure
Jorg Gellner, Managing Director, Gellner, gives our women executive readers some corporate grooming tips, keeping pearls in mind, of course
Why is it important for women, or anyone for that matter, to be well groomed at work?
It?s important to be well groomed at work because what we wear expresses our personality. Furthermore, we want to make a good impression on our colleagues and customers. For centuries, clothing and jewellery have sent signals about who we are. The world would be pretty boring without them.
What sort of pearl accessories work well for the office?
Firstly, it must be stated that there is pearl jewellery that caters to every taste. It is important that one finds jewellery that reflects one?s character. At work, one would probably be a little more understated, or less ‘sparkly’, than when out in the evening. Pearls are perfect for adapting to the occasion. For example, one can use different clasps, depending on how dressed up one wants to be.
How does one work the classic look of pearls without compromising on the edgier fashion tastes of some of the younger women professionals?
I think this has less to do with pearls as a material, and more to do with design. There is a tendency to equate pearls with old-fashioned jewellery. At Gellner, we have jewellery that is very current, that is bought and worn by trendsetters. The design makes the difference, not the material.
The mind boggles at the vast variety of pearls available. What would you recommend to a first time buyer?
In the past, one would have said that a white Akoya necklace should be a part of every wardrobe. This is not the case anymore. One should buy what one likes. Perhaps something more timeless to begin with, and then adding more modern pieces later on.
There are a lot of fakes available, some of which have been marketed and branded pretty well. Would they make more sense to someone who doesn?t want to spend a lot?
There are fakes available for so many things today, such as synthetic stones, cubic zirconia, silver that is gold-plated, to name but a few. Something fake has a different energy and feeling to something real because it can be mass-produced and is not unique. To each his own, as they say. One thing is for sure, though: pearls are difficult to copy. Most of the time I can see immediately if a pearl is fake, whereas it can be quite hard to spot a fake diamond from a distance.
What trends do you foresee in terms of designs, settings, colours?
This question is hard to answer because there are so many trends happening simultaneously. Despite observing trends, the main objective for us is to produce jewellery that is modern and yet that can also develop into classic pieces. In other words, we want to create jewellery that doesn’t lose its uniqueness over decades.
